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Tree Transplanting SportScapes has been contracting large tree moving for over 16 years. We have the experience necessary to determine if your tree can be successfully be transplanted. There are several ways to transplant trees depending on the size of tree, the site and the time of year. Below are a few guidelines for transplanting trees. Check out the video to see how BIG trees are moved! For an onsite evaluation of your transplant needs please call Darin at 319-329-9382 Season to Transplant Some species may survive transplanting any time during the year when the ground is not frozen, but woody plants are preferably moved in the spring after the ground thaws and before the buds on the tree or shrub begin to swell. They may also be moved in the fall after leaf drop but before the ground freezes. Fall planting should take place soon after leaf drop, providing time for new water absorbing roots to develop before the soil freezes. This is often difficult to estimate in the Northern Plains. Since evergreens are especially prone to winter browning if planting is delayed until shortly before the ground freezes in the fall, they should be moved late in the summer to early fall. Properly applied antitranspirants may help reduce the effects of winter desiccation in some species. Fall transplant success may be increased by transplanting hardy plants into sites with good soil moisture and wind protection. Woody plants that are transplanted in late spring and early summer, when shoot growth is at its peak, tend to show the greatest transplant injury. Site Selection There are great differences in the environmental requirements for each tree and shrub species. Only transplant a tree or shrub where light, moisture, soil pH, and wind exposure are appropriate for the particular species. All plants require space for root and crown development; therefore, consider mature plant size when planting trees and shrubs. Soil characteristics are often limiting factors for woody plant survival in a given area. Sometimes the soil is inappropriate for tree growth and will require improved drainage or amendments before trees and/or shrubs are planted at the given location. A soil test should be completed in areas where soil quality is questionable. For more information on soils in rural areas, contact your nearest County Extension Service office. Techniques for Transplanting Large Trees Special considerations are necessary when moving large trees. If trees are over 3 inches in diameter, special equipment is often required to transport the tree. Depending on the size of the tree and the technique used, the equipment may include hand carts, winches, tree spades, or cranes. If trees will be transported on a truck, precautions must be taken to ensure that they will clear power lines, bridges, and other obstacles. Permits may be required to transport large trees on some public roads. For trees not grown with the benefits of nursery production, root pruning the trees for two or more years prior to transplanting may prove beneficial in reestablishment. When hand digging, the techniques are the same as for smaller trees. Hand dug large trees may be balled and burlapped (B&B) or boxed. Larger B&B trees should have additional support provided by rope or wire. Chicken wire is a convenient material that can be wrapped outside of the burlap to support root balls. If a crane is used to pull the B&B or boxed tree from the hole, lift from the bottom of the root ball. Ensure that the trunk is heavily padded if a cable must be secured around it to balance the tree during removal. Since there is potential for severe bark injury, cables should be secured around the trunk only when they are absolutely necessary to stabilize the tree for lifting and transporting. Boxing trees is sometimes preferable to B&B. Boxes will hold the root ball more securely than burlap. This is helpful in sandy soil or when trees are held for extended periods of time. Trees are dug in the same way as B&B, only the root ball is formed to fit snugly into a box. After the lateral roots are severed, the sides of the box are secured in place. Then the descending roots are severed and the bottom of the box is secured before lifting from the hole. Large boxes require heavy metal bands or other support to hold them together. Boxes may also be used to transplant trees which are larger than mechanical spades can successfully transplant. These trees should be side-boxed with the root ball diligently monitored to prevent drying out for at least three months prior to severing the descending roots and securing the bottom of the box. Tree spades have become increasingly popular and are commonly used by professionals to move trees quickly and inexpensively. Only individuals properly trained in the maintenance and operation of tree spades should use them. Sharp blades reduce damage to roots during transplanting. Crushed or shredded roots caused by dull blades will develop more dieback than clean cut roots. Large trees should not be transplanted with root balls smaller than 12 inches in diameter for each 1 inch in trunk caliper. If multiple trees are being transplanted, all of the trees may be dug and stored B&B or boxed before transporting them to the new site. Increased transplant success may be achieved by tilling an 18 to 24 inch wide band adjacent to the outer edge of the root ball. This allows easier penetration of roots from the transplant ball into the adjacent soil area. If planting into clay soils, the sides of the hole should be roughened with a rake or shovel. When tree stability is questionable, guy at three locations, using non-abrasive materials, only until the tree has adequately reestablished anchorage through new root development Before moving a large tree, keep in mind that smaller trees of a particular species typically transplant better and catch up in growth to larger trees of the same species. A general rule is for each inch in caliper, a year is required for transplant recovery; therefore, a 4 inch caliper tree may require four years to recover from the transplant procedure before normal, active growth resumes. Postplanting Care Watering. Too much or too little water after transplanting is a major cause of tree or shrub loss. The site should be thoroughly watered immediately after planting. Thereafter, the soil must be regularly monitored to prevent drying out. If rainfall is inadequate, the soil around the plant's roots should be deeply watered approximately every 10-14 days. If you are not sure if the soil is drying, dig down 3 to 4 inches next to the plant. Wet soil at that depth verifies watering is not needed at that time. Mulch. Mulches help conserve moisture, moderate soil temperature and control weeds around trees and shrubs. They are placed on the soil surface over the tree or shrub root system. Either organic or inorganic mulches may be used. Organic mulches may be composed of bark or wood chips, straw, partially decomposed leaves or other materials. They should be applied 3 to 4 inches deep. Maintain a 4 to 6 inch mulch-free area adjacent to the woody stems. Inorganic mulches include plastic, crushed rock, woven fabric, and other materials. Solid plastic mulches may impede or prevent root development because they do not allow air or moisture to move into or out of the soil from above. Occasionally, when soil is poorly drained, mulch should not be used. Fertilizer. For the first few years, woody plants rarely need nutrients beyond those naturally occurring in the soil. No fertilizers or manure should be mixed with the fill soil, as this could cause root damage. If transplants appear to need fertilizer during the first few years, a totally soluble complete fertilizer should be applied. For additional information on fertilizing trees and shrubs, see NDSU Extension Service Circular H-1035, Fertilizing Trees. Pruning. Pruning may be required when transplanting trees or shrubs. The amount of pruning depends on the size of the root ball and plant canopy, health of the plant, and the species transplanted. Insect infested stems or those infected with disease should be removed during transplanting. Any broken stems should be removed as well. Additional pruning of shrubs may be required to balance the leaf area with the reduced size of the root system, but further pruning of deciduous trees should be postponed for at least one year after transplanting. Pruning of conifers should be limited to diseased, insect infested, and broken limbs. If additional pruning of conifers is necessary, it should be limited to one-year-old wood whenever possible. Late season plantings may require additional pruning since the plants have less time to become established before winter than those planted earlier in the season. For additional information on pruning see NDSU Extension Service Circular H-1036, Pruning Trees and Shrubs. Mechanical Support. Mechanical support for trees may be necessary when the tree is tall, slow to recover, heavily foliaged, or planted in a sandy site. Most small trees and shrubs do not require staking or other support and will develop strong trunks faster if allowed to move freely with the wind. For trees that do require mechanical support, staking may be used. Two stakes can be placed opposite of each other and the tree anchored to the stakes with a nonabrasive material, such as a soft, broad, fabric strap. Any support provided to a tree should be removed as soon as the tree can stand alone, usually after the first growing season. The sooner the support is removed, the faster the tree will become stronger. |
